| Poster |
Message |
 peep
 Moderator |
 jyrki - ? mootori kohta
Can you list what main components it has and what it would take money wise to build similar thing (rough estimation). |
| 20.04.2001 at 12:21 |
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jyrki
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 jyrki - ? mootori kohta
OK. First some explanations. I have been building these cars for over twenty years and have gathered parts and knowledge during these years. I have made some good deals during these years and swapped parts to other parts, so the expenses have been spread to a wide period. For the last ten years or so I've had an other job to finance this hobby and all the expenses of normal life are paid from my day job. Lately I have bought parts that I have been interested in and the same kind of results could be had way cheaper with more careful shopping and patience. But here is the list and the aproximate new prices in dollars of the very parts in my engine
Oil pan, self made ?$
Fluidamper 300$
Crank 1200$
Rods 1200$
Pistons and rings 900$
Gear drive 400$
Block 4600$
Cam&liters 650$
Cylinder heads, intake and valvetrain 5200$
Ignition 600$
Carburator 1000$
Headers 200$, self made froma Hedman kit
Miscannelous ~2000$
So it would cost around 18000$ to duplicate my engine with new parts. With a little different parts I think the same results could be achieved with about 1/3 - 1/2 less.
There is a lot of used chevy parts available to build a chevy BB cheaper and if I should build a Mopar I would propably go Hemi using old Top Methanol or TF parts where possible. One good place to save money is to buy a complete used engine as a starting point and begin from there. That's what I did with this engine five years ago; I paid about 3000$ worth for it and still have the crank, rods, gear drive, heads and intake out of that engine.
To give some perspective for the prices; One Pro Stock engine was in a dyno a couple of months ago. It made 1228 hp there. It seemed to have potential even for more and the carbs were the key factor. With an other Holley pair it gained 20 hp to a total of 1248 hp. The carbs cost 4000$ each, so it's about 400$ / hp in that particular case. The old saying 'speed costs money - how fast do you want to go' isn't that far off. In a typical streeter, the engine building expenses are about a half of the total cost of the car and the running expenses are pretty high too. |
| 20.04.2001 at 00:49 |
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Fog
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jyrki - ? mootori kohta
One hell of a  engine you have there. As I can see you have not wanted to get high horspowers with minimal cost, you have builded it with love and care, or I am wrong? Anyway keep on |
| 20.04.2001 at 00:59 |
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jyrki
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jyrki - ? mootori kohta
....and here is a more specificlist about the parts:
Milodon static external oiling
Melling hi vol oil pump
Mopar Performance 4340 crank
Childs & Albert Speedway rods
ROSS custom pistons with toolsteel wristpins
Indymaxx cross bolted 10.7" aluminum block
Milodon fixed idler gear drive
Mopar Perf water pump & housing
Ultradyne mech roller cam 283 deg/.68" lift
Comp Cams roller lifters
Smiths Bros pushrods
Indy 440-1 heads with 2.25/1.81" valves
Indy Dominator intake
Chuck Nuytten 1200 cfm Pro Street carb
Mopar Perf race distributor
MSD ignition computer & box
2" x 30" headers
ARP bolts & studs
There are four original Chrysler parts in the whole engine and they are four of the 28 oil pan bolts! |
| 20.04.2001 at 01:01 |
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partel
 |
 jyrki - ? mootori kohta
quote:
jyrki wrote:
There are four original Chrysler parts in the whole engine and they are four of the 28 oil pan bolts!
 |
| 21.04.2001 at 09:00 |
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partel
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jyrki - ? mootori kohta
Couple of q-s:
quote:
jyrki wrote:
Ultradyne mech roller cam 283 deg/.68" lift
LSA?
quote:
Indy 440-1 heads with 2.25/1.81" valves
Port cc's?
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| 21.04.2001 at 10:06 |
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jyrki
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jyrki - ? mootori kohta
LSA is 107 degrees and it's intalled at 104 intake centerline, that's two degrees retarded.
The heads have been fully ported, the intake ports in an untouched 40-1 heads are a little over 300cc. Mine were 330cc with the 2.19" intake valves and propably a couple of cc's more now. For reference, the factory mopar BB heads are between 180-190cc, so mine have somewhat bigger ports. A stock or regular aftermarket intake will bolt on to my heads, but the outside of the intake is smaller than the inside of my ports. This is somewhat old 'bigger is better' technology and nowadays you can even sacrifice some flow because of port velocity (=small port area) and still get excellent results with great driveability. Because of all the cubes these heads work in my engine well, they are recommended for 450-540 engines, but in a smaller engine they would not perform well in a pump gas engine. Same is true with other BB heads; unless you are running very big cubes don't go with the biggest port heads you can find. For example, in a chevy BB the fctory rectangular port heads have bigger port window than the current 500 cu in 9000+rpm Pro Stock engine heads. In a 454 they begin to be at the 'area' at sky high rpm, and in 9 cases out of ten an oval port headed engine will outperform a rect port engine prepped the same way. |
| 21.04.2001 at 10:48 |
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peep
Moderator |
jyrki - ? mootori kohta
thank's for sharing the information, me myself and probably few others here were wondering after those dyno results - what this engine has been eaten  .
[Edited by peep on 21.04.2001 at 10:18 GMT] |
| 21.04.2001 at 11:18 |
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